Lo Scoglio | Best Sea & Farm to Table Dining, Amalfi Coast
Lo Scoglio da Tommaso is one of the most famous restaurants on the Amalfi Coast —and with good reason too. Located in Nerano in the commune of Massa Lubrense, which is a small slice of heaven at the western end of the coast. The restaurant is built over a large boulder on a deck that juts out over the sea —an idyllic setting that offers the most spectacular views of the Marina del Cantone, with its sparking blue water and breathtaking landscape.
In the dining room every detail has been carefully considered—from the giant stone-walled fish tank and fountain of Poseidone (the god of the sea) to the colorful hand painted ceramic plates and giant fish on the tables. There’s nothing like sitting waterside and enjoying the serenity that comes while dining at this place, with the bright and breezy ambiance that combines flip-flop casual and jet-set luxury —and the stellar natural backdrop. There’s good reason that stars like Sting, David Beckham and Jennifer Lopez dine here.
Situated between Sorrento and Positano, customers have been finding their way to Lo Scoglio, via sea or land, since back in 1958, when the De Simone family founded the restaurant. Since then the De Simone’s have been serving up the very best of local cuisine, featuring the freshest ingredients from the crystal-clear waters that surround the restaurant and the family farms nearby, which are tended to by Farmer Peppino De Simone —the patriarch of the family.
Peppino’s daughters, Antonia and Margherita greet the customers with their warm, smiling faces and friendly nature—while running the dining room, and more. I still recall my first visit, and their greeting—felt like meeting up with old friends. It’s a lovely ambiance; relaxed and natural.
To begin the meal, I like to order a mix of antipasti, changing up a bit every time, but always including tastes of the sea and earth. After all, this duo met at table are the fresh and delicious reasons customers keep on coming back for more. At a recent lunch, I ordered the octopus salad, marinated anchovies, and bruschetta topped with tomatoes. Plus their celebrated fried eggplant balls drenched in tomato sauce, which are beyond sublime and a must-order for me every time.
In addition to the typical local cuisine —like a simple sauté of clams, mussels au gratin, and the famous Caprese salad, made with tomato, mozzarella and basil —Lo Scoglio offers a fine selection of raw fish and seafood preparations— like tuna tartar, shrimp with citrus fruit, and even the colorful, delectable sea urchins, simply served over crushed ice.
And for those looking for an extravagant tasting experience, the royal raw fish platter has a brilliant medley of the fish and seafood, fresh, right from the sea—shucked in a half shell, sliced perfectly into sashimi, chopped into tartare, etc.—the Mediterranean tastes that make simplicity awaken your senses and look forward to summers on the desk at Lo Scoglio. No photos here, but another recommendation for sure.
But the real showstopper is undoubtedly the terrain of various vegetable dishes that Chef Tommaso De Simone and his staff skillfully cook up every day —featuring whatever delicious edibles his father, Farmer Peppino, brings in from the farms that day. The spread of dishes are impressive —the colors alone, thrill —just imagine the aromas and tastes.
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Behind the Scenes with Farmer Peppino …
No article about Lo Scoglio would be complete without briefly sharing a few words about Farmer Peppino; his terrain, organic produce, and above all his passion. There are reasons why his restaurant is considered the best sea & farm to table dining experience on the Amalfi Coast.
One must see the vastness of the terrain (his gardens) and the meticulously cultivated crops to believe it —and have the time to stroll through and experience the glory of them all — as they are dispersed all over the sprawling hills of Massa Lubrense, from the highlands almost down to the sea. What’s more, each one is surprisingly vast in its own right and superabundant. Peppino keeps the most in demand edibles fully stocked in his restaurant at all times by continuously rotating the crops on the plains throughout each season, as each altitude level has its own unique atmosphere; temperatures and conditions. He even calls them different names; Trentino, “central Italy,” and Sicily —locations in Italy, from north to south.
But the real pleasure is having the chance to hear Peppino’s stories and indulge in his passions. I’ve never heard a person talk about the cultivation of a perfectly-ripe and delicious tomato, in which left me so awe-inspired and hungry—and let’s just say that I am no stranger to the process. There’s hard work to be done tending to his gardens, which he cultivates organically, using everything from organic waste to natural jute twine. And I am not even going to get into his secret for the best tomato sauce on the planet, which, by the way, “wowed”—or as they say in Italian, “ha fatto impazzire,” his good friend that happens to be the farmer king of tomatoes in the Campania region — just a hint —it includes 5 different varieties of tomatoes.
And so, I am often mesmerised by the diversity of delicious edibles Peppino transports to the restaurant every day —all at the peak of ripeness and of the highest quality. Here’s a look at the morning harvest a few days back —a true celebration of the given moment in the season and local food. Cheers to Peppino, or Cin Cin, as it’s said in Italian. 
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Back to the Restaurant….
Poseidone, the God of the Sea
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First course-wise, the famed spaghetti alla Nerano, made with thin slices of zucchini, a mix of local cheeses, and basil is a must-try if you are visiting the area for the first time —as it’s the celebrated pasta dish created in Nerano back in 1952. And if you saw the episode on CNN’s new series,”Searching for Italy,” it’s the pasta dish Stanley Tucci called life-changing when he tasted it for the first time at Lo Scoglio.
And if you’d like to taste a surprising combination of ingredients from the sea and earth that blend together divinely, try the homemade gnocchi (soft, cushiony potato dumplings) with clams, zucchini flowers, and bottarga (a delicacy of salted, cured fish roe) —It’s light and delicate, satisfying in all ways; taste, texture, and aroma. Ask about the homemade cheese ravioli, which is offered classically, dressed with tomato sauce, or featuring a sauce made with some delicious vegetable from the garden. Simple. Wholesome. Delicious.
But really, this is one of my favorite places to go to delve into a pasta dish, featuring the fresh delicious edibles brought in by the local fishermen. The selection of fish and seafood offered here is extravagant, and it’s worth checking out what’s in the tank. Not striking a pose over the tank, holding onto what should be in the tank —Here’s Peppino having fun!
Aside from the typical classic Neapolitan pasta dishes so many pleasure in eating by the sea, like spaghetti with clams, spaghetti with mussels and tomatoes, and large tube pasta with a rich fish and tomato sauce—a popular choice, and a favorite of mine, is the spaghetti with lobster and tomatoes. Tremendous flavor, and very satisfying.
Recently I ordered another local favorite, the spaghetti with sea urchins, which I have never tried —but heard so much about, and it turned out to the best pasta dish I have ever tasted. And that’s no exaggeration. So flavorful and delicious, with a strong, elegant seafood taste that can’t-be-beat, in my opinion.
For the second course, ask the waiter if you can see the tray of the fresh catch. And ask for suggestions about the preparation depending upon what fish you choose. The whole fish baked with potatoes and olives, or baked in a salt crust, or “all’acqua pazza,” (cooked in water with a few tomatoes and aromatics) —all simple, typical Mediterranean preparations that allow the pure, fresh taste of the fish to shine through. Marry that, with this spectacular view and a perfectly chilled bottle of white wine, and breathe it all in, La Bella Vita.
Here’s Tonino, one of my favorite waiters at the restaurant, and yet another cheery member of the family!
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And if you are looking for an explosion of seafood flavor, I highly recommend the “zuppa di pesce,” (fish soup), which brims with a scrumptious mix of shellfish; clams, mussels, shrimp, and langoustines, plus calamari and a medley of whole fish —all touched with tomatoes and aromatics, then served with crusty slices of toasted bread. Let’s just say it’s a tasting experience you won’t forget. Ever. 
You can cap off the meal with one of the popular local specialties, like delizia al limone (the lemon glaze covered lemon cakes filled with lemon cream from Sorrento) or la torta Caprese (the chocolate and almond cake from Capri), which are always wonderful. But since Chef Tommaso is super-passionate in the sweet making department, and he always puts Farmer Peppino’s delicious edibles to good use—ie, fresh fruit pies, sorbets, ice creams, and so on —I’d also ask the waiter for recommendations because there are always a myriad of delectables ready to be discovered each day. I recently had a white fig and cream pie that was luscious, a real treat —a taste of summer’s bounty on a plate. Or else, a simple plate of fresh organic fruit, as a lighter alternative, will certainly hit the spot as well.
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Ristorante Lo Scoglio da Tommaso
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Open Daily for Lunch and Dinner, Reservations Recommended
Address: Piazza delle Sirene Vico 10 15 Marina del Cantone, Massa Lubrense NA
Telephone: +39 081 808 1026