Le Colline Lubrensi | Harvest to Award-Winning Olive Oil, Sorrento Coast
Autumn has always been my favourite season —the cool weather, warm hues of foliage, fresh, crisp air…and a long, cozy list of reasons more. But it’s been especially so since I have been living in Massa Lubrense, where the silvery-green rolling hills come to life as the olive harvest takes place and men, and still today entire families, are hard at work.
The olive harvest typically begins in mid-September, with the laying down (and sewing up) of the nets beneath the trees, where the ripened olives will fall —and lasts until December, or even January, depending on weather conditions. During this fruitful time the importance of this agricultural tradition, which is deeply rooted within the local culture and its identity, can’t go without being noticed and appreciated —whether traveling on a main road or a quiet country trail.
The hills of Massa Lubrense are blanketed with olive trees, along with the lemon trees that produce the world-renowned lemons of the Sorrento Coast. From high up in the hills down to the sea, you can catch a glimpse of this autumnal harvest in every direction you look—including the coastal views with Mount Vesuvius, Ischia and Capri on the horizon, and Marina della Lobra, the ancient port town below—all beautifully accentuated by the silvery-green of the olive groves.
Le Colline Lubrensi
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Le Colline Lubrensi is a frantoio (olive mill) in Massa Lubrense owned and run by Antonio Gargiulo, a third generation olive farmer and oil producer—and well-respected part of the local community. Like his ambitious grandfather Mariano —who established the oil mill in the early 1900’s to distinguish himself from the other oil producers of the Sorrento Peninsula —Antonio has made his mark.
During the season, you can find him by day in his laboratory or somewhere on the hills harvesting the olives, then by night at the oil mill —working tirelessly sometimes until dawn. The mill, which is well equipped with state-of-the-art machinery, is bustling with activity all week long. Fresh off the groves, the local producers arrive in a steady stream with large cases of their newly-harvested olives —which are weighed and left over night with a fusti (stainless-steel container to fill with the oil), marked with their name. As olives must be processed within the first 12 to 13 hours after harvesting for maximum results, Antonio and his crew work diligently to make sure they are attended to in a timely manner and the freshly pressed oil is ready to be picked up the next day.
The machinery is impressive, as is the production process. In brief, the olives are first cleaned of leaves and stems, and any other debris left on the olives that would effect the pure and direct organoleptic (sensory) qualities of the oil. They are then crushed and milled into a thick paste before they go through a process called, malaxation (otherwise known as kneading), which is when the mixture is churned slowly to allow the small droplets of oil to coalesce into larger ones that may be extracted. Then the mixture is sent through suction machinery, which separates the pomace (skins, pits and olive solids) and any remaining water—and the oil is extracted.
As the magic of the season turns this bountiful fruit into a stream of golden oil the fragrance with which one inhales, fresh from the press, is extraordinary. It’s so intense and intoxicatingly fresh with greenery that during my first-time experience it triggered emotions so satisfying and pleasurable — I felt bewitched by the experience. Freshly pressed olive oil has a distinct, memorable fragrance that even today, 15 years later — I eagerly anticipate with the arrival of the season. These busy Autumn nights, right here, is where one can truly appreciate the richness of the “silvery-green” hills of Massa Lubrense and the importance of olive farming and oil production for the local community.
Back to the Olive Groves
Realising the Golden Dream
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Here’s Antonio with his friends the Pollio brothers, Claudio, Giuseppe, and Tullio, other inspired and industrious olive farmers of the community, and owners of the family run Agriturismo “La Lobra.”
Antonio’s passion for oil making has always been fueled by a steadfast commitment to produce high-quality olive oil, which is recognised for its excellence —and as an ultimate expression of the territory. He grows and tends to his olive trees organically, and harvests the olives by hand, using the modern electronic shaker rakes, known as abbacchiatore in Italian. Once harvested, the olives are brought directly to his mill, where they are carefully sorted through, and any bruised or defective fruits are discarded. He mills exclusively top-quality-olives, with great care and precision, at every step of the process. He is known locally for his meticulous ways and excellent product, and for this reason, many of the Michelin-starred restaurants, and all the great restaurant else, of the Sorrento Peninsula —keep his olive oils well-stocked in their kitchens.
Capo Ateneo Extra Virgin Olive Oil, D.O.P.
Peninsula Sorrentina
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The crown jewel of the production is the Capo Ateneo Extra Virgin Olive Oil, D.O.P. Peninsula Sorrentina, which won 1st place in the “light fruity” category in the 2021 edition of the prestigious Sorrento Sirena d’Oro Award. And made Antonio one of the top producers of EVO, D.O.P. from this corner of Italy’s south. The panel at the Sirena d’Oro praised the “light fruity” oil for its excellent olfactory cleaning and vegetal notes of fresh grass, green olives, and unripe almonds. Upon tasting, the oil is noted for having an exemplary balance between the sweet, bitter and spicy components. It’s unique, light and especially appetizing. At home, I use it all the time. It’s my go-to-bottle for cooking, but mostly for finishing savoury dishes; pastas, risottos, grilled meats and poultry —for dressing salads, drizzling over bruschetta, dipping crusty slices of rustic bread, and much more. Essentially, the oil provides that perfect touch of the authentic aroma and taste of the territory recognised and appreciated around tables in homes and restaurants throughout the Sorrento Peninsula.
In sum, autumn is always a glorious time on the silvery-green hills of Massa Lubrense, from the olive harvest to the local oil producers realizing their golden dreams. The glories of the “Le Colline Lubrensi,” (which refers to the hills of Massa Lubrense) are many, but for olive oil lovers —it’s the heavenly aroma and taste of the “golden drop” —the full sensory experience of the territory, the Sorrento Peninsula —one will savour and remember, for sure.
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Le Colline Lubrensi
Address: Via Bagnulo, 4 – Massa Lubrense 80061 (NA)
Telefone: +39 081 215 7044
Open Monday to Saturday from 7 am to 9 pm, Closed Sundays
Website
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