Antico Francischiello | Historical Places of Italy in Massa Lubrense
Founded by Francesco Gargiulo, Antico Francischiello opened its doors in Massa Lubrense back in 1909. Now more than a century later, a few incarnations, and generations of sharing family traditions, the restaurant has become a part of the prestigious list of historical places in Italy —recognised by the association, Locali Storici D’Italia.
On crossing the threshold of the restaurant, there’s no mistaken the history of this place. Adorning the walls and antique furnishings, there are family treasures of historical significance at every glance —including vast collections of antique hospitality pieces, from colorful porcelain and ceramic plates, vases, and teapots to silver platters and candelabras. Plus, generations of family portraits and oil paintings in gilded frames depicting rural scenes of the Sorrento Peninsula in the early twentieth century—and the rich, storied past.
In the center of the room, one can’t help but feast their eyes on the delectable display of homemade desserts and cookies, typical of the area, and fruits and other edibles from the family garden. Nothing like the atmosphere that comes with more than a century-old tradition and fine southern Italian hospitality. It’s an enchanting setting; so warm and comfortable, where Francesco’s grandchildren, Francesco and Firmina, who run the restaurant and carry on the fourth generation of hospitality—welcome their customers and swiftly make them feel right at home.
Off to the right, is my favorite place, the cozy little kitchen with rustic wooden beams, low hanging antique cookware, and a smoking hot, old grill. This is Nonna Pina’s (the matriarch of the family) enchanting little nook, where you might find her cooking up something for her grandchildren, making one her delicious homemade marmalades or liquors, like “limoncello,” Sorrento’s famed lemon liquor, or frying up little pizzas to welcome the customers. And if you do find her there, two things are certain; her kindness and grace will be remembered, and whatever she’s up to, will be a time-honored tradition that will offer a glimpse into the cultural and culinary heritage of the Sorrento Peninsula. 
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A Tasty Bit of History
Since the humble beginnings, when L’Antico Francischiello was located in the main square of Massa Lubrense, and of modest size, the Gargiulo family has been serving up deliciously-made cuisine of the territory, with inspired touches from afar—that has attracted locals and travelers alike. But the real success came when Peppino, Francesco’s son, took over sometime later and moved the restaurant into the current, more expansive space, situated roadside between 
Sorrento and Massa Lubrense —an enchanting setting, which offers customers breathtaking panoramic vistas of the lush green hills of the countryside and the crystal blue waters of the Gulf of Naples, with Mount Vesuvius, and the mystical islands of Capri and Ischia on the horizon. Here the talented chef Peppino brought the restaurant to new heights of culinary excellence and his young wife Pina (pictured above) welcomed the customers and ran the dining room with exceptional flair. L’Antico Francischiello quickly became the fine dining destination of great national and international actors, politicians and cultural figures —and popular venue for illustrious events. And in 1975, the restaurant was the first-ever to be awarded the coveted Michelin star in the Campania region.
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Here is Francesco proudly serving up his mother, Nonna Pina’s, homemade liquors, typical of the Sorrento Peninsula. These liquors are customarily served in the restaurants of the area to cap off the meal perfectly, both lunches and dinners, and to help with digestion. That evening, there was a splendid mix of local favorites; mirto rosso (red myrtle berries), mirto bianco (white myrtle berries), and, naturally, ‘limoncello,’ which Nonna Pina made with the precious, golden lemons from her orchard.
Now 113-years later, L’Antico Francischiello has stayed true to its classical roots, offering customers a unique dining experience that includes a rich, enchanting taste of history—whether dining in the elegant, interior room, charmed with antique pieces of all types or in the colorful, flower-laden terrace room, where the panoramic views of the Gulf of Naples, and the storied surroundings, will forever be recalled. The menu, which changes with the season, features the classic dishes of the Sorrento Peninsula and the newly, inspired takes on tradition, dreamt up by chef Antonio Attardi —the fourth generation of the family to run the kitchen.
For starters, the ‘Antipasto Francischiello’, which features an assortment of seasonal vegetables, prepared traditionally, grilled, stuffed, roll-ed up, etc. and a delicious wedge of the rustic Neapolitan Easter pie (pictured below)—is simply delicious, and a must-order for us every time. Recently, I ordered the artichoke parmigiana, a new, seasonal offering that was delightful —slices of fried artichokes, fresh, meaty tomatoes, and mozzarella —layered one on top of the other, then doused with melted Provolone del Monaco cheese, one of the area’s most praised cheeses.
For the first course, try one of the homemade pasta dishes, which are always excellent. The ‘cannelloni alla Massese’ (Massa Lubrense, style), filled with shredded meats, spun and grated cow’s milk cheeses from the area, and aromatic herbs, then baked, covered in tomato sauce —is not-to-be-missed, in my opinion. Especially, if you want to taste one of the most famous traditional, homemade pasta dishes from the Sorrento Peninsula, at an authentic restaurant —where it’s legendary.
Then there are gnocchi, ravioli, lasagna and a medley of other homemade pastas on the menu to consider, all traditionally-made, and, depending upon chef Antonio’s inspiration at the moment, with surprising, new innovative touches. The caramelle (candy-shaped pasta bundles) are one of my favorites—pictured here filled with a luscious mix of cow’s milk ricotta and mozzarella from the area, and topped with a sauce made of thinly sliced zucchini rounds, a mix of grated cheeses, and basil.
Otherwise, you might want to try one of the popular classic pasta dishes, like spaghetti with clams or large tube pasta with fish sauce, which are always wonderful. Or, the risotto alla pescatora (fishermen’s risotto)—made with a tantalising assortment of freshly-caught fish and seafood from the nearby waters, which is a specialty of the house at Antico Francischiello.
Second course-wise, I usually go with one of the classic fish and seafood dishes, like the sautéed red snapper with julienne vegetables or the fresh, whole fish baked in a salt crust, which are simple, typical preparations that render excellent results. And, if the ‘pollo alla cacciatora’ (chicken, hunter-style – baked with tomatoes and aromatics) is on the menu, it’s an excellent choice as well —guaranteed to make the first bite, and entire tasting experience —a perfect delight.
The dessert list here is phenomenal, as is each and every preparation. From the ‘tortino al cioccolato al cuore caldo con crema alla vaniglia e cioccolato’ (the little chocolate cakes with a warm, melted chocolate center on a bed on vanilla and chocolate cream) —to the ‘delizia al limone,’ (the lemon cupcakes filled with lemon cream and covered with lemon glaze, topped with whipped cream and a cherry)—to the ‘torta alla Nonna’ (grandma’s pie), filled with pastry cream, chocolate cream, and sour cherries, which Nonna Pina preserves in syrup and uses when she makes many of the classic desserts of the Sorrento Peninsula.
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On a recent cold, rainy winter night, we tucked into the restaurant for a comforting meal, enhanced by a table in front of the fireplace. Since it was Saturday night, when you can count on a variety of rotisserie meats and poultry being fire-roasted and their intoxicating aromas perfuming the air, the ambiance couldn’t have been more perfect to dine and soak up the warmth of the history-filled surroundings. To begin the meal, we ordered the jumbo prawn’s wrapped in crispy pancetta (Italian bacon) on a pillow of purèed chickpeas touched with rosemary, which was wonderful and immensely satisfying.
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And an appetizing Parmigiano and porcini mushroom flan on a pillow of creamy cheeses from the area. Light. Delicate. Perfectly made. All the while, I kept on thinking about the loveliness of the moment; the age-old room full of sights to behold and the exemplary service. The generations of sharing family traditions; the delicious food, the wine, etc. and all the delightful moments that must have been shared around the tables that surrounded me —in all, the unique and enriching dining experience.
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To follow, we enjoyed the rotisserie of chicken and stuffed pork loin with roasted potatoes and rosemary, which, need I even say, was delicious as usual.
And then we rounded off the meal with this ‘mille foglia con crema pasticciera e amarene della Nonna Pina —layers of perfectly-crisp, fried pastry squares filled with pastry cream and Nonna Pina’s sour cherries. And, naturally, a little glass of her homemade limoncello. Delicious!
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Antico Francischiello, a rich, memorable taste of history – the Sorrento Peninsula
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A Bit about “Locali Storici D’Italia”
Historical Places of Italy is a non-profit cultural association that brings together the oldest and most prestigious literary hotels, restaurants, pastry shops-confectioners, and cafes that have been protagonists in the history of Italy. The establishments are at least 70 years old, have maintained the original style, spaces and furnishings —and are in possession of relics, momentos and historical documentation on illustrious events and acquaintances. Today, the members of the solidarity are about 230. Read more >
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Ristorante Antico Francischiello
Address – Via Partenope, 27, 80061 Massa Lubrense (NA)
Telephone – +39 081 533 9780
Open daily for lunch from 12 pm to 3:30 pm and for dinner from 6:00 pm to 11:00 am, closed Wednesdays, from November to February